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How To Spend A Weekend In Cirencester.
Cirencester, known as the “capital of the Cotswolds,” is an ancient market town founded by the Romans—once the second-largest town in Roman Britain after London—today, peppered with swathes of honey-colored independent shops, cute cafés, and fine art galleries.
Strolling along its charming cobblestone streets, you’ll be troubled not to uncover a myriad of historic jewels, from its gothic church of St John the Baptist to Cirencester’s Roman amphitheater (open all day; free of charge), built in the second century, for 8,000 onlooking spectators. Or, pay a visit to its Roman-themed Corinium Museum, surf through its Market Place (a Farmer’s Market is held every 2nd and 4th Saturday of the month), sip a pint at the 15th-century Black Horse—the oldest pub in town—and catch a glorious sunset at Earl Bathurst’s 3,000-acre estate, Cirencester Park.
But if you’re looking to go further afield, Cirencester can serve as the perfect pillow stop while venturing deeper into the quintessentially English Cotswolds—from pretty chocolate-box villages to secret garden spas and gastropub-galore. So here is our guide on where to sleep, eat, and explore in the “capital of the Cotswolds”—and beyond.
Where To Stay
Orchard Stable
Nestled in the Cotswolds village of Ampney Crucis—just over 3 miles from Cirencester—the Orchard Stable is a chic 2-bedroom countryside retreat, set within Ampneyfield Farm, housing two other luxury barn conversions (The Milking Parlour and Haymaker Barn—ideal for group stays).
Snaking across a little patio guarded by towering European hornbeams and an apple orchard, you’ll reach the pretty barn door of this charming honey-stone cottage. Inside, spill into its cozy, open-plan kitchen-come-living room, elegant and homely, dressed in Cotswolds stone with exposed oak beams, a full-size pistachio kitchen (with a fridge freezer, electric oven, microwave, induction hob, dishwasher, and Nespresso coffee machine), a Victorian writing desk, and little country touches like vintage polo sticks, cricket bat trunks, and Edwardian shoe trees.
Here, you can graze on grand feasts, sat at your farmhouse banquette table, or sink into comfy cotton sofas as you peruse Netflix, wrapped in snuggly woolen throws, with a toasty log burner.
Orchard Stable
Step up through an iron-latched door into a second snug living room with cross-stitched sofas, a vintage globe, art deco paintings, and a cool antique leather trunk—all hidden behind long wedgewood-style drapes.
Meanwhile, a winding staircase flows into two attic master bedrooms, both evoking snug countryside-chic, with low beams, blown glass lanterns, skylight windows, super king beds (with fluffy woolen throws), and quirky farmyard prints—one with a direct en-suite (and an in-bedroom deep soaking tub) and another with a small adjacent bathroom wrapped in pretty Parisian tiles with a rainfall shower.
A secret door upstairs, however, reveals an iron staircase descending to a beautiful private courtyard—all yours—with whispering birch trees and an aromatic herb garden. This is Cotswolds utopia.
Best Restaurants
Nestled in The Old Kennels of Cirencester Park, Roots + Seeds serves sustainable, farm-to-fork cuisine—utilizing suppliers within a 25-mile radius, alongside home-grown ingredients freshly picked, every morning, from its on-site Kitchen Garden (with a goal to hit 75% home-grown this year). Join for its famous Sunday lunch—grazing on starters like Welsh rarebit crumpet or prawn cocktail—before feasting on its Mixed Roast Sharing Board ($32 per person) made up of tender chicken pies, giant fluffy Yorkshire puddings, pork loin roulade, blades of beef, crispy roast potatoes, and rich creamed spinach. Pair it with tickling cocktails, from the Roots + Seeds Gin and Tonic to Kitchen Garden Chilli Margaritas (made with homemade chili syrup).
The Crown
Once a 16th-century coaching inn, The Crown is an award-winning gastro pub in Ampney Crucis, nestled within the 24-bedroom boutique hotel, Wild Thyme & Honey—wrapped in Cotswolds stone, with rustic furniture, antler chandeliers, and cozy crackling fireplaces. As night falls, it offers a low-lit, romantic feel, where couples graze on small plates of ‘Nduja Scotch egg, hot honey kissed burrata, and sesame prawn & squid crumpets—followed by glazed pork belly, char-grilled smoked haddock fillet, or a smoky 28-day dry-aged steak burger, cooked over glowing coals, Robata Grill style. Top tip—look out for its legendary Steak Night Experience, held every Friday—and stay overnight afterward in its lavish No. 3 London Road suite ($675 per night).
Garden Room
A 35-minute drive from Cirencester, in the tiny village of Clanfield, The Double Red Duke is well worth the visit—a quintessential Cotswolds pub and boutique hotel—bearing 19 lovingly-furnished rooms (think vintage furniture, Roberts radios, and roll-top baths), a beautiful beer garden with candy-striped parasols, and a snug spa set in a shepherd’s hut (double rooms from $250 per night). Saunter along to the Garden Room with sexy olive booths, Greek busts, stained glass windows, and caged lanterns, as waiters—dressed in boiler jackets—whiz around with plates of crab rolls, beef tartare, and devilled lamb’s kidneys. Juicy steak cuts are the real showstopper, however, with what's up for grabs scribbled on chalkboards and crossed out as locals waltz inside and take their pickings—from T-bone to thick Black Angus ribs—served with bone marrow mash or belly-filling chunky chips.
Things To Do
Broad Avenue
The Grade I listed Cirencester Park has presided as the crowning jewel of the Bathurst Family for over 300 years—set across 3,000 acres, hosting calendar scribble-worthy events from adrenaline-pumping horse trials to the annual Cotswold Show, surrounded by striking sculptures, sweeping loop horse-riding routes (up to 8.5 kilometers) through Oakley and Hailey Wood, and the world’s tallest yew hedge (park entry; $5 per person). Visit “The Mansion,” as it’s known locally, built by the 1st Earl (believed to be built on the same site as the original Cirencester Castle) on private tours held on selected days throughout the year ($35 per person), grab some doggy ice-cream from Beano in the Park, or visit the Cirencester Park Polo Club, established in 1894. Boasting 11 polo grounds, a polo academy, and its famous Pavillion Restaurant (serving decadent four-course lunches)—it has hosted some of the world’s most influential figures, from George VI to the Maharaja of Jaipur, the sultan of Brunei and the current Royal Family.
The Pig in the Cotswolds
Dwarfing the Cotswolds village of Barnsley, just four miles from Cirencester, THE PIG-in the Cotswolds is a sumptuous Grade II-listed manor house hotel boasting original ornamental gardens designed by Rosemary Verey. Meander along the garden path, and you’ll uncover its stone-walled spa, where you can indulge in contouring facials (using Gua Sha stones), volcanic hot stone massages, LED-lamp manicures and pedicures, Himalayan pink exfoliation scrubs, and full-body wraps (massages and facials from $170 for 60 minutes; $210 for 90 minutes).
Afterward, retire to the Relaxation Room—wrapped in Cotswolds stone with Turkish rugs, candlestick alcoves, and giant floral murals, as you stretch out on a floral chaise lounge and sip ginger tea with dates and dried apricots for grazing. Or, make use of the outdoor hydrotherapy plunge pool, rattan loungers, and herb-scented sauna and steam room at the Fieldhouse (complimentary access for hotel guests only). Just across the road from the Fieldhouse sits The Village Pub, also owned by The Pig; an eccentric inn (with just six bedrooms) dressed with antique portraits, Hogarth prints, deer heads, and timeworn wingback sofas. Here, you'll devour small plates of pork pies and honey-coated chipolatas—while pub staples include smoked mackerel, devilled eggs, pork chops, or the Village Pub Ploughman’s—paired with fine local ales on tap.
Housing one of the largest collections of Romano-British antiquities from Corinium, Roman Britain’s second-largest city, Corinium Museum (in Cirencester's town center) showcases exhibits from the Roman and Neolithic periods, all the way up to Victorian times—where you’ll uncover the tools of prehistoric metal smiths, gawp at Roman mosaics, and discover Anglo Saxon grave goods (tickets from $11 per person).
Rowing boat picnic on the Thames
Dreaming of a romantic row along the River Thames? Head to the town of Lechlade on Thames at the edge of the Cotswolds (a 26-minute drive from Cirencester), where you can opt for Cotswold Canoe Hire’s two-hour Rowing Boat Picnic on the Thames. Drifting along the River Windrush, padded with comfy cushions and wrapped up in snuggly blankets, you’ll indulge in a Premium River Windrush hamper—think smoked salmon and cream cheese bloomers, fresh bacon and brie baguettes, homemade scotch eggs and sausage rolls, mini quiches, sweet cakes, and more—as you hear the gentle paddle of elegant swans heading for St Kenelm’s Church ($135 per couple).
How To Do It
Travelers in London can hop on a 70-minute direct train with Great Western Railway from London Paddington to Kemble. From there, it’s a 11-minute cab drive to Cirencester. To book the Orchard Stable, visit luxurycottages.com. For more information on the Cotswolds, visit cotswolds.com.
