Louisville’s parties always feature biscuits and country ham.
The Kentucky Derby is only two minutes long, but in Louisville, celebrations start days earlier with multiple parties that last all day and night. The city also boasts a vibrant nightlife in its bars and restaurants. Securing a hotel can be challenging, but once done, simply showing up is enough to join the festivities.
Louisville is known as Bourbon City, attracting visitors to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. The trail begins at the Frazier Museum and visits distilleries like Angel’s Envy, Michter’s, Evan Williams, and Old Forester. The Urban Bourbon Trail on Whiskey Row features distilleries and restaurants along Main Street.
During Derby Week, popular Kentucky foods like pimento cheese, country ham, and biscuits are served at every party. These include buttermilk biscuits and salty, thinly sliced country ham.
A mint julep—made with bourbon, sugar, and mint—is the traditional Derby cocktail. It dates back to before 1800. Historian Frances Parkinson Keyes said, “Never crush the mint in a julep,” highlighting its cultural significance.
Louisville’s signature dish is the hot brown sandwich.
It was invented in the 1920s at the Brown Hotel when chef Fred Schmidt created an open-faced turkey sandwich with bacon and Mornay sauce for late-night diners.
The hot brown remains a hotel specialty, though it is rarely found outside the Brown Hotel.
Derby Pie is a trademarked dessert traditionally enjoyed on Derby Day.
It is a rich chocolate-chip pecan pie created by Kerns Bakery, known for its thick, decadent style.
You can find Derby Pie and similar dishes at Churchill Downs’ nine food and drink venues, including the Starting Gate Pavilion, Skye Terrace, Millionaire’s Row, and Stakes Dining Room.
Pat’s Steakhouse is a classic favorite among Louisville generations.
One of my favorite places in town, dating back to 1958 is Pat’s Steakhouse, set on two floors of a 150-year-old coach house with décor of dark woods, brass chandeliers, Waterford crystal, hundreds of old photos and white tablecloths, along with a wall of more than 60 bourbons. Begin with a platter of oysters, maybe the frogs’ legs in garlic butter and then the 16-ounce strip steak or Pat’s fried chicken.
Jack Fry’s pre-dates Pat’s by a quarter century in business, decked out in decades of sports and gambling memorabilia. Here’s where to get shrimp and grits with redeye gravy or the pork chop with smoked bacon and roast potatoes and the angel’s food cake.
Pork ribs BBQ at Backdeck.
Kentucky has a string barbecue culture, and one of the best I found in Louisville is owned by Chan Nelson, who insists you don’t drown his succulent ribs in sauce. Best bargain at Backdeck is the three-meat platter with beans, smoked mac and cheese and yams.
Red Hog is a butcher shop that also purveys terrific sandwiches, soups and charcuterie. The Fat Tony sandwich ($16), mounted with mortadella, salami cotto, city ham, provolone, mayo, hot pepper tapenade, lettuce and onion, is terrific.
There’s first-rate Italian food at ROC, owned by chef Rocco Cadolini, for sumptuous pastas. Try for an outdoor patio table.
The gargantuan Jeff Ruby’s offers a huge menu of sushi, steaks, seafood and chops.
For the big, brash splurge—and it’s sure to be packed every night—make a reservation in advance at Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse, which does indeed have 14 cuts of steak, as well as 15 variations of sushi, wagyu meatballs, a massive pork porterhouse with polenta cakes and heady black pepper jus, and for dessert, a three-layer carrot cake with warm caramel cream cheese icing. The restaurant’s wine list deserves its many awards for great breadth and depth.